Feb 242012

The final task before the colour is put on the outside of shell was the trial fitting of the rear bumpers at Hutsons. Unfortunately all three sections of the original bumper were beyond repair due to a minor rear-end shunt, which had left a neat crease down the middle of the centre section and both out sections being bent out of shape.

Time pressures resulted in new bumpers having to be used, which wasn’t ideal. I’d heard these can be thinner than the originals and the chrome less durable. Only time will tell. Anyway, at least the trials and tribulations of trying to get a complete set of original bumpers was over!

I had planned to refit the LHS section which I thought didn’t look to bad. Therefore I set about obtaining the other two sections as bumpers regularly come up on eBay but it has ended up being an expensive series of disasters! First up was a centre section that the seller insists was posted but it never arrived. The blame placed on the Christmas post. Next, and by far the worse, was purchasing of a ‘complete’ Series 2 rear bumpers from a guy who I believe is a regular on the Jaguar spare parts circuit. The bumpers looked undamaged and all the brackets were correct for the Series 2 …. I was pleased with my purchase.

Only when Hutsons came to trail fit these did it transpire that they were in fact butchered Series 1 bumpers. On the Series 1, the rear lights sit just above the bumpers, which have indentations for the lights. However, with the Series 2, the rear lights moved below the bumper so there were no indentations. For some reason, only known to themselves, someone had cut off the original brackets from a set of S1 bumpers and welded in their place (admittedly very neatly) Series 2 brackets.

The galling thing is that I suspect the seller knew this all along, since he was the owner of half a dozen Jaguars and used to be a main dealer. I will be having words when/if our paths cross!

 Posted by at 9:40 pm
Feb 232012

A rather grubby wiper motorThe wiper motor in the S2 is a Lucas Type 15W motor, the output of which drives a connecting rod to the triple wiper rack. From what I can tell the 15W motor essentially works in the same manner as the DL3 wiper motors used in the earlier cars, except that the parking switch is now internal within the 15W.

There are two main sections of the wiper motor; a round bodied section (which acts as the yoke, completing the magnetic circuit) and the motor gearbox. The round bodied section has two permanent field magnets attached to its inner wall and houses the motor’s armature. At the end of the armature shaft is a worm drive that drives the geared output shaft in the motor gearbox.

Worm drive at the end of the armature shaftThe two long yoke retaining bolts were removed which enabled the round bodied section and armature to be carefully withdrawn until the worm drive is free. Unchecked, the action of the worm drive would pull the armature shaft further into the motor gearbox. A threaded stop screw limits the permitted travel of the armature shaft and there’s also flat thrust washer between the armature and motor gearbox.

The internals were quite badly corroded ... like everything else!The armature can then be withdrawn from the yoke. Although a reasonable amount of force is required to overcome the magnetic attraction between the permanent magnets and the armature.

The interior of the yoke was fairly heavily rusted and all the tiny, loose rust particles were now annoyingly attached to the permanent magnets.

The thrust plate and fibre washer in the 'bearing housing'The end of the armature rotates in, what the manual describes as, a bearing housing in the cap of the yoke. However there isn’t a bearing as such. Only a small thrust plate and fibrous washer. I didn’t realise they were there at the time of dismantling so I was lucky not to lose them.

A cover on the main motor housing provides access to the geared output drive. Sometime in the past this cover had become deformed and so it no longer provided a tight seal around its full perimeter (just about visible in the lower photo to the right).

The main housing cover had been deformed creating a gap which would allow water inThe cover can be pressed back into shape but it immediately pops back, in a similar manner to the lid of an opened jar. I think it’s referred as oil canning and is a result of the centre area of the lid having been stretched.

It should be possible to reverse the stretching by heat shrinking the centre of the plate but that will have to wait until the rebuild.

Removing the cover revealed copious amounts of thick brown grease. I think the grease had dried out long ago and it was surprising the motor was able to turn at all! The rest of the dismantling was very straight forward.

Hardened grease within Worm drive engaged Triple armature brushes

Over time the grease had dried out and hardened. It was surprising the gear could actually turn

Armature worm drive re-engaged for photo. Armature free play is set by tightening a screw, just visible on the left


As the wiring between the armature brushes and the parking switch unit is fixed, they had to be removed together. This required the removal of the geared output shaft to gain access to the screws securing the parking switch unit. The output rotary link is removed which enabled the geared output shaft to be withdrawn.

Output rotary link Geared output shaft Parking switch screws

Removal of the output rotary link

Withdrawing the geared output shaft

The removal of the gear wheel provides access to the screws securing the parking switch unit

The geared output shaft has a Belleville washer (conical spring washer) inside the motor gearbox to provide pre-loading and a flat washer between the motor gearbox and the rotary link.

Parking switch wiring Belleville washer Rear rubber seal

The motor has three brushes to provide dual speed operation, which are connected the parking unit

Conical spring washer between the geared output shaft and the motor gearbox

Motor gearbox and the rubber moulding sealing the output shaft had hardened over time

Feb 212012

The intention had always been to replace the existing wiring loom, which had had its fair share of modifications in the past. Much of the braided covering had either been caked in oil over the years or had disintegrated. As it was to be replaced and to speed up its removal, I had cut the loom where it passes through the bulkhead and removed it in two sections.

Fortunately, at the time of removal, I wasn’t aware that the loom was in fact made up of a number of looms. So the two sections were boxed and not separated into the individual looms. I was thankful of that when I came to deciphering the wiring diagram against the new looms, as I was able to refer back to a complete loom.

I was fairly confident that I wouldn’t have too many problems doing the re-wiring (pride before a fall?). Just in case, I purchased a copy of a wiring diagram produced by Coventry Auto Components which was to supplement the Jaguar service manual diagram. You can never have too much information ….. unless it’s conflicting or incorrect!

Somehow the old loom had turned itself into a right old bird’s nest while in storage. It took quite a while to untangle it so that it could be laid out, mimicking how it is routed within the car. Armed with a multi-meter and the wiring diagrams, I set about the simple task of labelling the new looms …

… four days later the finishing line was in sight. I had printed a large copy of the wiring diagram which was used to track the progress. Wires that had been identified were labelled at both ends indicating what they should be connect to and then highlighted on the diagram as ‘accounted for’.

The wiring convention used by Jaguar employs colour codes to signify the type or purpose of the wire, eg green for a regulated, fused source. Therefore a loom would often have a number of wires of the same colour. Once a wire disappeared beneath the loom’s braided sleeving, it wasn’t always obvious which of the similarly colour wires reappearing was it’s other end! So a multi-meter, set in continuity mode, was extremely handy and took out the guess work.

Other issues that, for now, remain unresolved are i) a missing green & brown wire for the reverse light switch and ii) a spare purple & white wire at the centre of the dash. The E-Type forum is very helpful in cases like this as there’s a wealth of knowledge available from the forum members. I was not alone with both the missing and extra wires as one member had decided to use the spare purple & white wire for the reverse light switch. Perhaps I’ll need to do the same.

Feb 192012

Two new fans for a Series 2 were ordered from SNG Barratt. However when they arrived they were too large to fit in the radiator cowling. The diameter of the supplied fans was approx. 1″ bigger than the originals. They had sent me fans for an XJS V12, which would explain the incorrect part number being moulded in the fan centre! They looked identical apart from the increased diameter.

So I called Barratts to explain and they said they simply trim them to the correct size. I could either send them back for Barratts to resize or do it myself. I couldn’t be bothered with the hassle of sending them back so decided to do it myself.

6mm ply was used to fabricate templates to trim off the excessIt’s a well-known phenomenon that as soon as the dreaded ‘E’ word is mentioned the cost of parts rocket skyward, to whatever the vendor and, being of a cynical nature, the vendor community think they can get away with. The fans being a case in point. At the time, an XJS fan cost £15 while the E-Type fan cost over £30 – an eye-watering mark up! So it’s worth finding out if a part was common to other models/marques.

The plan to trim off the excess from the fans was to sandwich a fan between two plywood templates. Then run a router around the template so the smooth shaft section of the router bit would butt against the template and the cutting section cut through the excess fan blade below.

Birdfeeder base was an exact diameter match which made making the templates much easierAs luck would have it, the base of a garden birdfeeder had exactly the same diameter as the original fan. So this was used to cut out the templates, using the same method above.

It also became clear as work progressed that the plan was rather over-engineered. All that would be required was a correctly shaped upper template for a section a little wider than the fan blade. A blade could be positioned under this section and trimmed with the router.

A router was then used to cut off the protruding fan bladeThe fan could then be rotated until the next blade was under the same section and process repeated until all the blades had been cut to the correct length and profile. The blade ends were then lightly sanded to remove any remaining swarf and were then ready for fitting.

Feb 182012

Unscrewing the two long bolts provides access to the internal componentsOne of the great things I’ve found about the restoration of the various electrical components is that they were designed in an era before our ‘throw away’ society. Therefore overhauling the units is well within the capability of most enthusiasts. As with the fuel pump, the stripping down of the fan motors was very simple.

Having said that, the fans had been attached the wrong way round and no matter what I tried they would not come free. I tried using a small, hub puller type tool on the first fan. However all this achieved was to shear the nylon fan from its central metal fixing, which then had to be carefully cut off using a Dremel tool. So two new fans were added to the ever growing shopping list of parts required!

The fan motor casing consists of a square steel body clamped between two alloy end plates. After the two long screws have been withdrawn, the end plates can be prised from the body with a screw driver. These Lucas motors weren’t designed to be watertight as the rear end plates have openings for the electrical connections. So, over time, water ingress had taken its toll on the interior components.

Rear end plate

Corrosion within!

A rusted armature

A little persuasion was all that was needed to remove the end plate

The internals were fairly rusty ... probably not helped by the openings for the electrical connections in the end plate allowing water in

The armature had suffered worst

As the fan was still attached, the rotor (or armature), the front end plate and fan had to be removed as one. The only other parts within the motor are a wound stator and the armature brushes mounted in a plastic holder. The holder can be withdrawn by removing the two screws on the underside of the motor body.

Wound stator removal

Wound stator & brushes

Stator is just a push fit

Two central screws secure the stator housing

Stator housing can then be removed

The stator removed from the plastic housing

The stator can then be pushed out of the plastic holder. The brushes are loose fitting and can simply be pulled apart and lifted away from the holder. In the end neither fan blade could be removed intact. A Dremel with a cutting disc was needed to remove the metal fixing that remained stubbornly attached to the armature shaft. Once it had been removed the armature and front end plate could be separated.

A thrust washer sits between the front end plate and the armature. A similar washer isn’t necessary between the armature and the rear end plate. When the fan is operating, the fan blade produces a forward force on the armature pushing it towards the front end plate and away from the rear end plate. Therefore there is no load on against the rear end plate.

Thrust washer between the front end plate and the armature

Feb 032012

The pump body and most of the other alloy parts were taken to Carb Clean to be ultrasonically cleaned. I thought this would be better than blasting with a lightly abrasive medium and was pleased with how the parts came out.

It became apparent that one of the common problems with this SU pump was the tendency for the points to stick, especially on cars stored over winter. After hearing stories of drivers having to use a hammer to whack the pump back into life, I decided it was probably a good idea to upgrade from points to electronic actuation with a kit supplied by Burlen Fuels.

A fuel pump repair kit was also ordered which contains all the various gaskets, non-return valves, diaphragms etc for a full rebuild. Whilst this was not exactly a cost effective choice, with the cost of the parts close to that of a new pump, it was done more out of interest to understand the inner workings of the pump. Most of the parts for the rebuild kit are shown in the picture along with the cleaned pump body and non-return valve clamping plate.

The rebuild of the pump body section was simply the reverse of the steps taken to strip the pump down. The only issue was the orientation of the domed diaphragm in the delivery chamber. I’d taken plenty of photos when dismantling the pump but none of them showed clearly whether the dome should face into the delivery chamber or the cover. The service manual suggested that it should face into the delivery chamber but the diagram also had additional springs and diaphragm plates which were not present on my pump. A quick call to the technical department at Burlen Fuels confirmed that this was the case.

Delivery Chamber Inlet Chamber Pumping Chamber

Stating the obvious but the only issue with the installation of the non-return values is to ensure their correct orientation. This can be checked by blowing backward and forwards through the value to determine from which side flow is possible. The only other difference between the two valve assemblies is the presence of a gauze filter on the inlet side.

The new armature guides supplied in the repair kit were 5 plastic figures of 8, as shown in the first photo above. The original guide was a single piece and the new guides seemed to be a backwards step rather than an improvement. So the original part was refitted and avoided having to hold five guides in place when refitting the armature/diaphragm into the coil housing.

Next the return spring is placed with the smaller circumference towards the armature. The pump body, armature/diaphragm and coil housing can then be reassembled and secured by 6 screws.

Converting the pump to electronic actuation requires a magnet carrier to be attached to the upper end of the armature spindle. First a plastic guide tube is pushed over the spindle down into the coil housing. This centralises the spindle movement within the coil housing. The magnet carrier is fully screwed onto the spindle before being backed off until it is aligned to be perpendicular to the line passing through the pedestal mounting holes. It is then secured in this position on the spindle by tightening an allen screw.

The bakelite pedestal is replace by a PCB which is mounted on spacers to raise it away from the coil housing. On one of the spacer mountings contains a ‘Hall Effect’ fork. The fork enables the electronic circuit to detect the travel of the magnet carrier and thereby control the energising of the coil.

The fuel pump operation can be ‘tuned’ by the rotational positioning of the Hall Effect fork. This is achieved by loosening the screw above the fork and slowly rotating the fork until the pump speed reaches its maximum. The fine tuning would wait until the final testing of the pump when flow rates would be checked.

Feb 022012

Series 3 fan motor?At some stage one of the cooling fan motors had been replaced with a round-bodied motor which I think must be from a Series 3, shown on the right. So the first task was to acquire a second motor which is correct for the Series 2. One of the vendors at the Jaguar International Spares day suggested that these occasionally came up on the eBay website.

I’d vaguely heard of eBay at the time and thought it was mainly used by people peddling tat and dodgy items. However needs must, so I logged on and started monitoring new Jaguar/E-Type ‘listings’. It took a while to get used to the ins and outs of their auction process. I’d soon lost count of the number of times I’d placed a bid days before the auction ended, only to find all the bidding happened within the last few seconds. I didn’t have time for that!

I must admit that subsequently I’ve been surprised how useful eBay has been, although I still think there’s a lot of tat on there – so buyer beware! Someone from the E-Type forum pointed me to an ‘auction sniper’ website which automatically makes bids for you, seconds before the auction ends, and so takes all the hassle away. Sure enough, someone listed two square bodied motors for sale but in need of complete overhaul.

Buckled boot lid frameOddly, at the end of their advert, they mentioned they were looking to get hold of a boot lid. At some point my car had had a slight shunt at the rear which had twisted the frame under the boot lid’s skin, which is just about visible in the photo. The bodyshop suggested that, although it could be repaired, it would probably cost as much as a new one as the skin would have to be removed to repair the frame.

As luck would have it, I had already sourced a replacement and so had the other one spare. I mentioned its condition to the eBay seller and that it might not be economical to repair but they seemed keen on cutting a deal – so a straight swap was agreed, with the transaction taking place late at night in a layby just outside of Brockenhurst!

Sourced motors with fan mounted back-to-front!The motors were indeed in need of a complete overhaul and for some reason had the white fans mounted back to front. I’m sure this wouldn’t have helped in the efficiency of the cooling and it certainly didn’t help when I came to remove them! Funnily enough, a few days later, an advert appeared on eBay for a basket case restoration of a red roadster, with my blue boot lid! As I said – buyer beware.