May 292014

The cars left the factory with untreated fuel tanks and so rusting from within was quite common. I wanted to seal the inside of the tank but needed to ensure that it was not of the PVC type, which is susceptible to hardening and cracking due to the increased percentage of ethanol used in modern fuels.

The other issue was avoiding the sealer blocking the small vent tubes again. Initially I’d looked at hot-dip galvanising but, after this was discounted, it came down to a choice of tank sealers from either KSB or POR-15. These both follow the same three step procedure; de-greasing, metal preparation and then application of the sealant.

In the end I opted for the KSB Gold Standard sealant. Although, oddly, the quantities sold are aimed more towards the motorcycle market. The tank needs to be rotated and rolled during all three stages of treatment to ensure all the surfaces are covered, including the baffles. Therefore it needs to be sealed to avoid leaks.

I didn’t want to ruin the final cork gaskets and so made up some silicone ones, using the left over two-part silicone used to create the mould for the heater vane.

Making silicone gaskets Masking tape retained the silicone Fuel sender gasket

The cover plate with the tube down to the fuel filter could be masked fairly easily to stop it being coated with sealant. Therefore it could be used to seal its hole in the tank. However the fuel sender couldn’t be masked effectively. So, to coating the moving and delicate parts, an aluminium disc was knocked up as a replacement.

Sealing the filler neck was slightly trickier as I couldn’t get hold of a large enough bung. A replacement bath plug from B&Q just about did the job, requiring some additional help from duct tape.

The KSB tank sealer is reasonably fluid which allows it to cover the internal surfaces fairly easily. As a result I concluded that periodic blasts of compressed air would be sufficient to stop the internal ends of the vent pipes from blocking.

Compressed air to clear vent tubes Sealed tank with de-greaser and metal prep Finally the sealant is applied

The first stage involved applying a warm diluted solution of KSB’s AQUA product to thoroughly degrease the tank. The tank then needs to be rinsed and completely dried throughout before applying their ‘Rust Buster’. Again, this needs to be rinsed and the tank completely dried before moving on to the final stage of applying the sealant.

The AQUA and Rust Buster are essential just a branded degreaser and a phosphate acid solution, to convert any surface rust. Therefore cheaper alternative options are available for these steps.

The Gold Standard tank sealer was then be poured into the tank and the tank slowly rotated to ensure all the surfaces are covered. A slow methodical approach to rotating the tank was definitely better than trying to shake the tank. The curing process doesn’t start for at least 30 minutes when it slowly becomes more viscous so there is plenty of time to get good coverage.

Compressed air was periodically blasted down the vent tubes to stop them blocking as well as every time the tank was turned. After about 30 minutes the unused sealant was drained from the tank before it started to thicken due to the curing process.

All surfaces need a light coating Draining the excess tank sealant Repainting the exterior

Unfortunately the various seals weren’t water tight so some phosphoric acid escaped over the painted exterior finish. The weak acid left light run marks in the paint which could probably have been polished out but I decided to repaint the tank with some POR-15 gloss chassis paint.

The completed tank sealed and re-painted
May 262014

The weekend had been chosen for attempting to start the engine and the usual additional help was sought, although this time only John from the E-Type International Rescue team managed to secure the necessary leave of absence.

However, before any attempt could be made, there were quite a number of tasks that still needed to be completed; seal and fit the fuel tank, finish off and test the wiring, connect up the battery, connect up the EDIS Megajolt electronic ignition and complete the Mangoletsi throttle linkage to name but a few. Retrospective posts covering these will be added shortly.

The pressure was on! The sealing and painting of the fuel tank was only just completed in time to enable the tank to be fitted the day before. Although I hit a major snag …. it didn’t fit! The mounting points didn’t align with those on the body! The solution was to leave it in place and just connect up the fuel lines for now. It will have to be sorted at a later stage.

The time lost in trying to fit the tank resulted in the wiring and battery tasks not even being started by the morning of the starting attempt. Therefore the fuses for all the non-essential circuits were removed to limit the amount of testing/checking required before starting the engine.

I had permanently wired in a connection for my CTEK battery charger, which has a ‘supply’ mode delivering 13.7v. In this mode the maximum current that can be drawn is limited, enabling the circuits to be tested more safely.

The charger was connected, the ignition switch on and, much to my relief, the fuel pump ticked into action. Rapidly at first and then settling into a slower rhythm.

Moments later, fuel started leaking in numerous places in the engine bay! Power was swiftly cut and the leaks addressed in turn. The first was the fuel line connector which had gone in cockeyed into the filter housing. The fuel inlet pipe was slightly too short which had resulted in the misalignment and cross threading. The only remedy was to re-tap the thread.

The only taps I had were of a dubious Chinese origin that I had been advised were best stored in a bin! Where they now reside. Fortunately we were able to make an emergency trip over to the rather well equipped McLaren factory to re-tap it and allow progress to continue.

Even with re-tapping the thread, fuel was still leaking. The culprit was narrowed down to the new brass connector which had a collar before the thread started. This limited the amount of the thread that was engaging before collar came into contact with the olive. Therefore making it more prone to cross-threading again and the ability to obtain a quality seal against the olive.

At this point I would have given up but John suggested a cunning plan of reversing the fuel filter so the brass fitting would use the undamaged thread. PTFE tape was also applied to the threads to help avoid leaking until a new pipe is made.

The plan worked. The other leaks were due to using aluminium crush washers on the carburettor banjo bolts rather than fibre washers. I suspect this might be a result of the zinc plating not providing a sufficiently smooth surface on the joint fuel pipe and banjo bolts. Some of John’s replacement handcrafted washers worked a treat.

Once the fuel issues were resolved, we needed to make sure oil had been circulated around the engine and sufficient oil pressure had been achieved. The battery was connected to allow the engine to be turned over on the starter motor to operate the oil pump. However the plugs and coil pack leads were removed to stop the engine starting.

There was no reading on the oil pressure gauge so we started to suspect the oil sender might be a fault. It was removed from the engine and the Mityvac vacuum/pressure pump (normally used for bleeding the brakes) jury rigged to check whether it was working correctly. It was and was measuring accurately, although with a fair amount of lag.

An oil pressure of about 18-20 lbf was finally achieved after running the starter motor in spurts for a while. A few from the E-Type forum confirmed that this should be sufficient to start the engine. The carburettors were adjusted to their default starting position: the damper oil levels checked, the slow running screw fully screwed down and then backed off two full turns and the mixture adjusting screws unscrewed to set the jet flush with the bridge before turning them each down by 2 1/2 turns.

So, for the first time in 18 years, the key was turned to start the engine …. it started on the first turn of the key!!

The only remaining problem is some airlocks in the coolant system which caused the coolant to be expelled from the expansion tank once the engine was stopped. Although I’ve found this is not uncommon.

 Posted by at 10:46 pm
May 232014

There was slight play in the upper steering which was found to be caused by a broken wave washer in the lower bearing components. Otherwise it appeared to be a simple matter of giving the painted parts a fresh coat of paint before rebuilding.

The ignition switch introduced for the S2 cars incorporated a steering column lock and is secured to the steering column housing with a security bolt. The hexagonal part of the bolt is designed to shear at a certain torque. Therefore, once in place, the only way of removing the switch/lock would be to drill out the remaining rounded head.

Steering column components Steering lock security bolt Ignition switch secured

First the outer column shaft needs to be secured into the column housing. The shaft is fed through the upper roller bearing into the housing and then locked into position by the lower bearing. The lower bearing and seat fit under a larger retaining cap and then a series of washers is fitted before the final circlip.

Outer column shaft Upper roller bearing Lower roller bearing

One of the washers under the circlip is a wave washer which provides a spring pressure once compressed. This preload removes the free play of the column shaft within the column housing.

The inner and outer shafts engage on splines so the torque applied at the steering wheel is transferred from the inner shaft to outer shaft and finally on to the steering rack. However the inner shaft can slide longitudinally into the outer shaft to provide a level of adjustability in the steering wheel position. The rightmost picture below shows the inner and outer column shafts at both ends of their adjustability.

Fitting splined bearing race Retaining cap over bearing race Adjustability of column shafts

The stop button screwed into the outer shaft protrudes into a slot machined into the inner shaft, thus limiting its length of travel. A locking nut in the shape of a large black cup (not shown) is attached to the split collet by a circlip. When the cup is rotated clockwise it screws further onto the thread at the end of the outer shaft, compressing the collet and locking the inner and outer shaft together. Similarly rotating it anti-clockwise allows the collet to expand sufficiently, to unlock the shafts and enable the steering wheel to be adjusted.

The photo also shows the two nylon pins that enable the steering column to collapse. If the steering wheel is hit with sufficient force, such as in the event of an accident, the pins shear allowing the lower section of the outer shaft to slide into the upper section. At the same time the lattice structure of the column housing will also compress.

Finally to the trickiest part of the rebuild – the fitting of the indicator stalk mechanism. One which caused quite a bit of head scratching! Although in my defence, this was because one of the critical parts was missing. A previous owner had obviously taken the indicator off at some stage and bodged the refitting.

The missing item was the retaining clip (19). The correct fitting is the two screws pass through both the clip and a packing piece (16) and into the threaded holes in the indicator body. The combination of these two parts ensures that the rotational parts of the indicator are concentric with the column shaft.

The previous owner, Cap’n Bodger, had used the packing piece as the retaining clip as they are fairly similar in shape. However without a packing piece in the correct position, the indicator housing had been pulled too close to the steering shaft.

Over time this had worn down the white nylon ring operating the indicator mechanism. Unfortunately you can’t buy the nylon ring on its own and so the only solution was to purchase an entire replacement indicator stalk unit. However this still wouldn’t resolve the problem of the missing clip, which is no longer available from all the usual suppliers.

Even Google and eBay searches hadn’t found anything so the only option would be to fabricate one based on the packing piece. The completion of the steering column was put on hold for a month or so while I pondered what to do. When it was picked up again, I made one final eBay search, just in case …. a USA auction for a clip had finished two weeks ago although without any bidders.

A speculative message was sent on the off chance they still had the clip. Shortly after came the reply that they did and a deal was done within an hour of contacting them. Result!

Back to the rebuild. The indicator stalk unit (13) followed by the indicator drive clip (9) are passed over the inner column shaft. The indicator packing piece (16) can then be placed in position but the corresponding clip (19) isn’t fitted at this stage as it will be necessary to move the indicator stalk unit and drive clip around to fit other parts. However once these parts are fitted it would be very difficult (if not impossible) to insert the packing piece. I fitted the split collet at this stage although this can wait until the cup-shaped lock washer needs to be fitted.

The packing piece has a small round protrusion which is aligned to fit into the corresponding hole in the indicator unit mounting bracket. This ensures the indicator stalk is at the correct angle once everything is mounted to the bulkhead. (Note: my mounting bracket had two holes and therefore possible indicator angles, I’ll adjust later to the preferred position)

Protrusion on packing piece Hole in mounting bracket Exposing stop button hole

The indicator stalk unit and the drive clip need to be pushed towards the steering column housing to fully expose the hole for the Stop Button so it can be inserted. The raised section of the stop button should end up near to being perpendicular to the column shaft.

The drive clip must then be push away from the steering column until it rests against the raised section of the stop button. This will expose the screw holes for the clamping bolts which secure the drive clip. Once clamped, this will obviously also lock the stop button in position.

Drive clip locks stop button Drive clip bolts & washers Finally the clip is fitted

The clip to lock the indicator stalk unit and packing piece tightly into position can now be attached.

The tab on the drive clip needs to engage with one of the slots in the white nylon indicator ring. Therefore when the column shaft is turned the nylon indicator ring turns at the same time.

A tooth on the rotating nylon ring will then engage with the cancelling arms to automatically cancel the indicator when the wheel is turned.

When connecting up the whole steering column on its various splines, the wheels will need to be in the dead ahead position and the indicator cancelling tooth mid-way between the cancelling arms.

The final components to go on are the split collet (although I had added this much earlier) followed by the large black cup shaped locking nut, which needs to be fully screwed onto the outer column shaft to reveal the circlip groove inside.

Fitting the circlip locks the two together and completes the upper steering column rebuild.

Later the steering wheel & boss will to be attached to the inner shaft. Once the split cone has been located in its grove, the splined steering wheel boss slides onto the inner column shaft until it meets the split cone and the central nut locks everything in place.

Steering Rack Fail Safe

Although the steering rack had been fitted for a while, I hadn’t added the steering rack fail safe bolts. Now the upper steering column had been completed it was time for a complete check of the steering system and fathom out the fail safe set up.

Note: this is only my understanding/interpretation of the fail safe as I see it, based on common sense rather than any qualified knowledge.

Rubber steering rack mounts are used to absorb some of the impact that would otherwise be transmitted directly through to the steering wheel if solid mounts were used. Therefore the ability to steer is totally reliant on in the integrity of the rubber and its bonding to the metal mounting plates.

The purpose of the fail safe set-up is therefore twofold; to maintain a level of steering input if the rubber/bond failed but, in doing so, avoid introducing any harshness to the steering feel that the rubber mounts were designed to remove.

Essentially the fail safe needs to allow the rack to move unhindered on its rubber mounts but to ‘catch’ it and limit its travels if the rubber fails.

Large retaining washers are fitted under the heads of the fail safe bolts. The bolts then pass through holes in the steering rack before being secured to the picture frame.

However retaining washers do not exert a clamping force on the rack and the holes in the steering rack are almost twice the diameter of the bolts. Therefore the rack is free to move on the rubber mounts.
Jaguar used different components for the driver and passenger sides but both are designed to achieve the same result; to stop the fail safe bolt & washer exerting a force on the rack.

Passenger Side Fail Safe – with lock nuts Driver Side Fail Safe – with spacer tubes

On the driver side, spacer tubes are fitted over the bolts. The length of the spacer ensures retaining washers are just proud of the steering rack. The spacer diameter is marginally smaller than the holes in the rack so rack movement is still not restricted.

On the passenger side, lock nuts are fitted to the bolts (or more correctly setscrews) instead of the spacer tubes. The lock nut and Nyloc nut secure the bolts to the picture frame so that the washers under the bolt heads are just in contact with the rack. Again, as it is only lightly in contact, it does not restrict the free movement of the rack.

If either rubber fails, the rack will only be able to move a small distance until the fail safe bolts or spacer tubes come into contact with the edge of the holes in the steering rack.

The question of why Jaguar used different components on each side of the car has been asked many times on the E-Type forum but there’s never been a definitive answer.

My guess, and it is a guess, is that the use of spacer tubes is a compromise between allowing the rack to move freely on the rubber mount and the need to provide sufficient steering input in the event of a failure by limiting its free travel.

The manual specifically states the spacers are to be fitted on the driver side of the car, so regardless of whether the car is LH or RH drive, the spacers will always be at the pinion end of the steering rack.

I suspect, if the rubber has failed, limiting the range of free travel is more critical at the pinion end where the steering column attaches. The spacers would reduce this range considerably. The trade off, in normal use, would be that the spacers are more likely to impact the edges of the steering rack holes on heavier impacts and therefore transmit more unwanted harshness to the steering wheel.

May 202014

The fitting of the windscreen was one of those tasks that I thought would be best left to a professional. One of the forum members had given a good feedback when their screen was installed by Howard of Merlin Motorscreens, based in Surrey.

Unfortunately I couldn’t arrange economic transportation of the rolling chassis to their workshop so it would have to be done in situ. As each car is different, I was warned that the installation may need to span over two days and that he may need to use his own supply of the rubber seals, depending on the quality of the SNG seals.

My only contribution to the whole process was to periodically returning to monitor progress and take a few photos of the various stages. On the positive side the SNG seals were useable. The whole area was protected with a generous covering of masking tape, the seals quickly trimmed to length and fitted to the windscreen flange using a bonding sealant.

In no time at all, the rubber seal had been lubricated with a soapy detergent allowing the screen to be eased into position from one side. A screwdriver was then used to get the final edge of the screen correctly seated into the seal. The next task was to tape the packing rubber strip to the top edge of the screen which sits between the screen and the top chrome finisher.

Windscreen slotted into rubber seal Taping the rubber strip Top chrome tapped into position

Re-chroming the top finisher can lead to distortion problems due to the heat created by the polishing process. Luckily my now banana shaped chrome finisher wasn’t too bad and he managed to tap it home with a rubber mallet.

At this stage you get the impression that the job is almost complete, but there was a lot more fiddly bits to do. There was much trial fitting of the A-post caps and chrome finisher to determine if and where additional packing rubber was required. The cavity under the rubber seal can be generous in places so additional rubber is pushed into these areas to avoid the screen dropping away from A-post caps later on.

Trial fitting A-post chrome Clamping the bonded chrome Completed A-post chrome

A beading strip could now be inserted into the rubber seal. Its purpose is to push the external side of the seal hard against the windscreen and mounting flange, locking the screen in position.

The chrome finisher, running along the base of the screen to conceal the beading, slides into slots moulded in the screen seal. Although contact adhesive is also needed to keep it in place in the long term.

The A-post chromes are also bonded into place although they are also fixed by screws along their rear edge and slotted under the A-post cap at the top. The interior trim also slots under the cap and therefore needs to be fitted at the same time. The bottom of the interior trims are secured by the same clips used to fix the door cards.

This leads to the logistics conundrum of what should be fitted first …. the final adjusting of the wiper linkages needs the windscreen in but the dash top off, to provide access the linkages. Putting the windscreen in, included the fitting of the A-post trims. However with the A-post trims in situ, it’s then not possible to fit the dash top!!

All that remained was to trim back the top rubber strip inside and out and remove any excess adhesive with white spirits. From start to finish it took just over 5 hours. If anyone in the South East is looking for their screen to be fitted, I would thoroughly recommend contacting Merlin Motorscreens.

Completed screen Interior A-post trim
May 132014

Fortunately it was possible to re-chrome the sidelight/indicators. However to do so ACF Howell had to remove the bulb holders and reflectors, neither of which faired out too well during the removal process.

The other problem was that one of the lens screws had sheared and I’d forgotten to remove the remaining section prior to sending everything to be re-chromed. So not only was it corroded in place but it was now sealed with a layer each of copper, nickel and chrome.

It was carefully drilled to break the plated layers and soaked in penetrating oil for weeks before attempting to remove it using a left handed drill bit. It wouldn’t budge so there was no alternative except to drill it out and re-tap.

Fine in theory but the lens screws are an odd size (approx. 0.130″ diameter and 32tpi). None of the local machine shops had a suitable tap and various internet searched failed to find one too. The closest tap was 6-32 at 0.136″ diameter which will now require a different size screw.

The next challenge was to find some new bulb holders which also proved to be very elusive. I finally managed to find some at the Stoneleigh spares day on a stall offering headlight re-silvering for very old classics.

The side lights require a bulb holder to fit a 5/8″ diameter hole while the indicator is for larger a 7/8″ hole. Once in place, the bulb holder edge is peened over to secure it in position.

The metal body of the light unit acts as the earth connection for the bulbs. A good earth would probably be achieved just by the four mounting screws, as the whole of the lower bonnet panel is earthed directly from the bonnet plug. However a brass bullet connector ring is also fitted to the indicator bulb holder and wired to the earth running in the loom.

Components for front lights Holder pressed in tightly Earth bullet connector

The indicator bulb holder is much harder to fit than the side light as the holder edge needs to be peened over tightly so the earth connector at the rear and the reflector inside aren’t wobbly. I rigged up a method of clamping the rear which took care of the earth connector. The reflector could then be held hard against the unit while a metal rod was tapped to peen over the edge of the holder. An additional pair of hands would have been very useful!

The disadvantage of someone else dismantling the units is not being able to recall what was removed. As a result, I’d overlooked the re-fitting of the internal shield. Fortunately it’s simply secured by two 2.4mm rivets and once in place, creates separate indicator and side lamp compartments.

Sprung bulb seats fitted Almost forgot the internal shield Shield riveted in place

I thought the rebuilding of the units would be fairly simple rather than the palaver it turned out to be to get replacement parts. It took three attempts to get the lens seating foam from SNG Barratt. Each time they were ordered I received the gasket for the side reflectors only found on US cars. Eventually we found out that my copy of their catalogue had a typo!

Fortunately the rubber boots fitted over the rear of the holders were in good condition as they’re not available any more. I also had to remake all the sprung bulb seat connectors as the wires were way too short.

Still that would be the least of my worries …. all the chrome units had been sent to Hutsons specifically so they could be trial fitted and the body work adjusted prior to painting. Both indicators were miles out and clearly hadn’t be fitted before the bodyshell was painted and the lights sent on to be re-chromed. Really not impressed.

It appears that the holes for the indicator units in new bonnet panels are approximate and need to be fettled quite extensively. I therefore had no alternative – I’d have to take a grinder to my painted bonnet to open out and reshape the hole. The accuracy of the bonnet panel is also amiss as I’m certain the indicator inserts haven’t been welded into the bonnet squarely.

The other odd thing is that only two of the four mounting points have nuts welded to the bonnet panel. Once the headlights are installed there won’t be access to the rear of the units. So I’ve had to fit some spire nuts in these holes.

The mounting holes in the indicator units also had to be enlarged to try to overcome the alignment problem. Even so, I’ve not been able to mount the units a horizontal as I would like. It’s something that will bug me now!

Complete unit ready for fitting Much fettling was needed to fit One down, one to go!
May 082014

The breakdown of the re-chroming quote received from ACF Howell simply had ‘RIP’ written in place of a cost for the rear light clusters …. and I had thought they looked in better shape than the front lights, which they were able to re-chrome! I was therefore slightly weary of picking up some second hand ones at the Stoneleigh spares day, just in case they too were later found to be beyond help.

The general view is that the aesthetics of the S2 suffered with the tightening of US health and safety regulations, by the introduction of the rear wrap-around bumper and rather slab rear-end look. They have a lot to answer for!!

Peter Crespin, an author on Jaguars, had ‘tidied’ up the rear of an S2 based around using the rear light clusters from a Lotus Elan 2+2. These have a reverse light incorporated into the unit thus removing the need for the separate reverse lights either side of the square number plate.

Rear of Standard S2 Rear using Elan rear lights
Images courtesy of E-Type forum

The number plate mount and aluminium number plate finisher are also dropped enabling the more traditional oblong number plate to be attached directly to the body. This in turn enables straight exhaust resonators to be used rather than the splayed ones introduced with the S2.

While I much prefer this uncluttered look, I still wanted to be able to revert to standard relatively easily/cheaply. The main expense is the rear light clusters so the decision was whether to buy the correct ones or the Elan 2+2 units. The problem would be that having separate reverse lights might obscure the ends of the number plate.

A quick call to Framptons confirmed that they would be able to produce an oblong number plate which would fit inside the original reverse lights (just!), because my registration number only had two digits and one of these was a ‘1’.

Decision made. I would stick with the correct light units and the reverse lights but would swap to an oblong number plate and straight exhaust resonators.

One of the rear housings for the light units had been pushed in and badly twisted. Presumably when it sustained the rear bumper damage. Fortunately I managed to find a pair of second hand ones although their hand-painted finish looked as though the previous owner had had a fight with the paint brush …. and lost!! Nothing some shot blasting couldn’t cure.

The replacement housings may well have been from another Jaguar model because they didn’t have the retaining nut on the rear face and new ones had to be welded in place. The paint had been masking some quite bad pitting, so the housings were left to soak in phosphoric acid for a while to convert any remaining traces of rust before being filled and painted with Epoxy Mastic 121, along with the final few unpainted parts.

I also decided to give the inside of the housings and the back of the light clusters a number of coats of Dinitrol hard wax in an attempt to delay the onset of the same corrosion problems in future. Several thick coats of Dinitrol were applied – initially it looks a mess but dries overnight to a thinner, more uniform finish.

The parts diagram indicates that there should also be a foam gasket (item 5) sealing the aperture where the lamp cables exit the rear housing. Despite numerous searches, I couldn’t find anyone who supplied them so I knocked up some gaskets using some Dynaliner. The foam is closed cell so shouldn’t absorb water which would making things worse rather than better.

First the light housing must be attached to the body. The inboard side with two 3/16″ setscrews, one securing the light’s earth connection, and the outboard side with two 3/16″ self tappers into a square nylon span-in nuts.

However I found that once the housings had been fitted, it wasn’t possible to fit the bolts securing the rear bumpers. Therefore these bolts need to be screwed in place beforehand.

The bumper brackets slide onto these bolt so it’s not necessary to fit the rear bumper first. Although access to the bolts starts to become limits once the light units have been mounted to the housings.

I’ve found Bresco very useful for supplying many of the odd trim fittings and they supply a pack of the Nylon snap-in nut for 17/64″ square hole (code 80200P), which is sufficient for the rear lights, the reverse lights, the padded door brackets and the brackets for the internal door lever operating the door locks.

Oddly the inner two bolt holes of the reproduction light clusters were tapped. This didn’t make sense to me as it would stop the bolts providing a clamping force on the clusters against the housing. Once the screw had engaged with the thread in both the light cluster and housing, they would move in unison along the screw thread and would not be drawn together.

In the end I gave up and drilled the bolt holes to remove the screw thread to obtain a good seal on the rubber gasket between the two.

Finally the reverse lights and number plate light were screwed in place to complete the rear lighting.

May 082014

The pipes hadn’t fitted first time (probably due to an oversight on their part) but you can’t fault PD Gough’s after-sales service. The problematic tail pipes were returned within a couple of days.

They had replaced the section of the tail pipe, which needs to slide over the silencer exits pipes, with a larger diameter pipe. These now fitted easily and snugly onto the silencer pipes.

One of the other issues was the geometry rearward of the silencers. The problem was the mounting brackets on the resonators were approx. 4-5 inches below the rear exhaust hanger bracket.

The returned pipes had reduce this to about 3″ so significantly less force was now required to raise the resonators to be attached to the hanger.

I’m still not 100% happy with the fitting as the rubber mounts are still subject to the fitting loading but it will do for now. When just the tail pipes had been refitted, they had a clear downward slope when they should be running horizontally under the IRS.

I think the remaining alignment problem is either due to the angle of the pipes exiting the silencers or the initial upward bend of the tail pipes. The latter will be easier to make so I’ll do this once the engine is up and running.