The window regulators and door latches had come back from the platers looking almost like new. The interior space within the door will be subject to a lot more moisture than most of the other areas of the car, so these were given a coating of Dinitrol hard wax.

It seemed a good time to tackle the drop glass while the wax dried overnight. A job I’d been putting off since attempting a trial fitting.

The drop glass is retained in the glass support channel by a thin strip of rubber. Unfortunately both channels had suffered from quite bad corrosion.

The first was so weakened that it bent when the glass was removed. Fortunately replacements are available but as usual they’re a long way off the quality of the originals.

The trailing edge slides within a channel in the window frame and was originally made out of brass. The repro items are just folded steel.

I was half tempted to try to replace the trailing edges by cutting off the steel and brazing on the old brass sections. On further inspection it wouldn’t be that easy to achieve and I’d probably do more harm than good.

The first trial was to place the rubber in the channel and then trying to insert the glass. As there wasn’t any lubrication, this mainly compressed the rubber into the channel. The rubber had more of a tendency to push the glass out of the channel than hold it in place.

The problem with the second trail, trying to place the rubber along the length of the glass and then pushing both into the channel, was that it was very difficult to keep the rubber evenly spaced all the way along. Not that it would really matter as, hopefully, it won’t be seen for quite some time after the car is finished!

In the end I used strips of duct tape to temporarily hold it in place. The tape was only needed until the full length of the glass was just in the channel. At which point the rubber is compressed sufficiently around the glass so it can’t move. The tape could then be removed before it became trapped between the rubber and the channel frame.

A short length of rubber strip is also needed up the trailing edge of the support channel so two wedges were cut out to stop the rubber ruffling up where it rounded the corner. The rubber was given a liberal covering of slightly diluted Fairy washing-up liquid before the support channel was knocked into place with some sturdy taps with a nylon hammer. It was easiest to get the trailing edge tapped home before working the way along the length of the channel.

In the end it was a lot easier than I thought it might have been. The window regulator runs in the two channels at the base of the support channel. A stop is used to limit this movement thereby setting maximum height that the window can be raised. Unfortunately the stops were missing so I will have to fabricate some later.